Wednesday, July 19, 2006

I love Paris...in the summer...when it sizzles...

So it’s around 5 o’clock in the afternoon…and I am in my “hotel room”. I was luckily enough yesterday to find an adapter for my laptop and any other American appliance I may have. I’m sitting Indian style, listening to Broadcast on my laptop with the sounds of construction and the loud Turkish kids outside my window that never seem to shut up. Drinking a Perrier. Eating bread. I know what you are thinking. Its 5 o’clock in the afternoon and I am sitting inside. I am in Paris…what the hell am I doing? Why aren’t I outside!!!? Well a couple of reasons. First of all, for the last 3 days Amy and I have wondered all over this town by foot. I bet we put in a good ten miles a day. We rarely use public transportation. We chose not to do this mainly because you understand and experience a city so much more when it is right there in front of you. When you go into a tunnel and pop out right in front of another monument, you are only getting half of what is going on. You don’t see the neighborhoods change, the people, the shops the eccentric places, alleys or strange coincidences occur(like noticing an option on a menu outside a Turkish restaurant called “Ass Doner” or the fat man hanging outside his window staring out endlessly into the street…smoking a cigarette. ) Every town we have gone to, we walk. And in every town we probably have seen some things that most tourists who stop in for only a couple days haven’t. These events, people, writings on the wall or strange menu option are not necessarily significant, but on the other hand…we aren’t either. So my end conclusion is that I am tired of walking and for the last 3 days it has been over 36 Celsius here in Paris (I will let you translate that one…) but basically, before you put on your second sock after getting out of the shower you already have a forhead full of sweat. Thus, I am taking a bit of break from this heat and chilling in my hotel for awhile. The second reason why I am here in my room is because Paris is a pain on the wallet. I heard the rumors before I came here but I also heard the same rumors about San Francisco. But here…it’s actually true. For example…I went to the guy at the front desk (a nice middle aged French man who loves Steve McQueen and helps me with my French. We always have a brief conversation in French in the morning.) And asked him in French where I could find a cheap restaurant. He asked how much cheap was. I said less than 10 euro. He then asked if I meant lunch…I told him no…for dinner. He laughed. End of conversation. So yah…I have been almost every arrondissment and outside them…and so far…lunch is always at least 7 euro and dinner is well over 12. Have you looked to see how much the euro is worth nowadays compared to the dollar?? Needless to say, before Paris I was doing real well with my cash but since arriving in Paris only 3 days ago…I have been hurting for anything cheap. I hear the rest of France is better….god I hope so. BUT tomorrow is free day for all the museums…so I will probably hit up the Louvre tomorrow which will save me a few bucks. So that’s why I am in my room. Overall, Paris has been nice. I have been able to test out my French speaking skills and everywhere you turn there is some museum or building that was built 400 years or square where thousands of people were beheaded. It is a strange juxtaposition with all the wealth and fashion that is here as well. Paris is full of clothing stores. Even out in the 18th arrondissment its still clothing stores…they are just all used and cheap. I have yet to run into the stereotypical snobby French person as well. However, upon witnessing some other Americans and how they interact with the locals it is pretty embarrassing to watch. Every time there is someone loud on the train or in the bar or at the hostel, it seems to mostly be Americans or English. Since our first day Amy and I have been to the Pompidou which was currently holding an exhibit on experimental film (oh I bet you guys are so jealous…*ahem* Chris…roman) and an exhibit on Los Angeles which was a chronological exhibition on the Los Angeles artist. Super interesting since I am practically from there. We have also been to the Père Lachaise cemetery…which holds such people as Oscar Wilde, Max Ernst, Marcel Proust, Guillaume Appolinaire, Balzac, Moliere, and um….Jim Morrison. (Whose grave has since been cleaned, a gate has been put around it and it now has a guard to make sure it is not defaced). We walked around the Louvre Palace(which is so much bigger than I had ever thought or anticipated)…drank a beer sitting next the Seine and walked…walked…walked..etc.
In addition to all of this, last night we went and saw “Marie Antoinette” the new Sofia Coppola movie. (1*we were so tired from the heat/ 2* it was actually only 7 euros to go see it/ 3* that movie doesn’t come out till October in the states!!!) So now we have something to brag about for a couple months back in the states. Unfortunately, it was no good. I walked out trying to pretend I sort of liked it but five minutes later we concluded it was just not very good. Oh well…
So in an hour or so I am going to go back out into the city of Paris. However, it will alone. Amy left for back home today as was planned. I have three more days booked here in Paris and 10 days altogether before I start school in Angers. Paris is a big city and it will be sort of lonely not having her to walk around, get sweaty, get lost and experience this place with me. I don’t know what I am going to do exactly. But I will figure it out. As for the 6 days before I start school, I think I am going to try and get out of Paris mainly because of how pricy it is.
End conclusion. Paris is a wonderful city that I have enjoyed. However, it’s also a hard to penetrate past the tourism and expensive areas. Every town Amy and went to we were able to find that sort of hidden bar or cool local hangout to have a few beers at before we went back to our hostel. However in Paris we have been unable to that. Everywhere we go that has been suggested just seems sort of posh or mainly touristy. This town is definitely a place where knowing someone who lives here would come in handy. (Which I thought I had people who I could hit up but I guess not….blah) So I don’t know…tonight…probably go see Notre Dame…walk around an arrondissment I haven’t been to…see what happens.

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

walking through a quaint outdoor antique market in southern france... juicy roasted chickens scented the air. they were everywhere. i can smell them in my dreams. and the creperies. omg. im not sure if youve come across the chickens, but all you need are those, crepes, a baguette, and melon. this could be a problem if youre vegan. but it was cheap and treated me well

Anonymous said...

I am so happy that you are experiencing the hidden corners. Your blog is well written and intelligent. You have been well educated. I got hold of Claires number and will send it to your e-mail tonight. Also, check out the flea market at the end of the metro line on Sunday. There you will find that dingy cafe. Also, go to Shakespeare and CO bookstore accross from Notre Dame and root for clues on the underground scene. It would behoove you to go clubbing or hit a show where the populous will be in the know about hard to find fun.-sis

Anonymous said...

at the premiere of Marie Antoinette in Cannes, motherfuckers booed it. They booed it! Then John Cameron Mitchell talked shit about it to me.

Anonymous said...

Hey Sax...
Am enjoying reading your accounts...sounds as though Paris affected you much the same as it did me...interesting to visit, but...
Since I don't know how to do "blogs" I'm not sure you have received any of the comments I have posted..maybe they're just flying around contaminating cyberspace!!
Anyway, take care...think of you lots..
Love, GMA